This, the northeastern county of the State, is bounded on the north by the State of Oregon, on the east by the State of Nevada, on the south by Plumas County, and on the west by Siskiyou. It is rectangular in shape, measures nearly one hundred miles east and west, by nearly sixty north and south, and contains 2,750,000 acres. It was originally a portion of Siskiyou but was erected into a separate county by an Act of the Legislature of 1874, receiving its name from the celebrated Indian tribe whose fierce resistance to the progress of the whites in their settlement of the country made this section notorious over the while United States, the theatre of the famous “Modoc War” being in the northwestern part of the county and the adjoining part of Oregon. The lava beds lying at an altitude of about four thousand feet, in the western part, cover nearly its entire width, thence stretching to the east they narrow until the lines of their territory in California come to a point at Goose Lake, in the northeastern part of the county. The vast waste is absolutely barren and uninhabitable, strewn thickly with scoria and all the evidences of former volcanic action. The southern border of this formation is abruptly defined by a perpendicular wall of rock, causing a drop of about one hundred feet from the level to the plateau into Hot Spring Valley, and extending its while length to Goose Lake.

The north fork of Pitt River, rising in Goose Lake, running southwest unites at Alturas with the south fork which comes up from Lassen County; thence the river flows on in a southwesterly course to the upper Sacramento in Shasta County.

The valley formed by Pitt River in its passage from Goose Lake to its junction with the south fork is known as Hot Spring Valley. It is about fifty miles in length by about six in width. The tillable land of this valley is confined to the river and creek bottoms, and crops are somewhat precarious owing to the early and late frosts to which they are subject.

In the southwestern part of the county Big Valley (lying partly in Lassen) includes an area of about twenty-five miles in diameter. It is drained by Big River, one of the main tributaries of the Pitt, and although only settled about thirteen years, has gathered within its confines a population, inclusive of the prosperous towns of Adin located here, of about 1,000. This, considering its remoteness from rail or river connection, must be esteemed substantial progress.

Goose Lake Valley, on the east side of the lake of the same name, in striking contrast with the lands of the opposite shore, is wonderfully fertile, abundantly watered by numerous creeks, and produces as plentifully and as easily as any part of the State. To the east of the valley, and within immediate reach, the mountains are heavily timbered with cedar and pine, thus rendering wood and lumber comparatively cheap.

Passing on to the east over the warmer range of mountains which separates it from Goose Lake and Hot Springs, Surprise Valley is found, which is the largest of all the vallies of northeastern California. The valley extends from the northeastern corner of Modoc south through the eastern part and far into Lassen. It is about eighty miles in length by about thirteen in width, and is settled with but short intervals for the while distance, although in a comparative sense its development is yet in its infancy. The soil is as rich as can be found anywhere in the State or out of it, with an abundance of water for all purposes of irrigation or machinery. One the eastern side of the valley a chain of lake varying from two to four miles in width extends through the county. These lakes are quite shallow, uninhabitable to fish, owing to the alkaline character of their waters, and are frequently dried up entirely by evaporation during the summers. The arable lands all lie west of these lakes. All the cereals are cultivated with success, and wheat and barley produces from forty to sixty bushels to the acre, while in the adjoining foothills the abundance of wild clover and red top makes it the Utopia of stockraisers, large numbers of beef cattle being driven from here to Reno for the San Francisco and Nevada markets.

The early settlement of Surprise Valley, which dates from 1864, was much retarded by Indian depredations, and it is only within the past eight or ten years that any progress has been made. The valley now numbers about 3,200 in population. There is a good wagon road extending through the valley and thence to Reno, over which a daily stage line plies, and three wagon roads cross the mountains through easy passes to the west, giving perfect communication with the balance of the county.

The climate of Modoc is exceedingly healthy. The summers are pleasant, and in the vallies during the winters the snow rarely falls to over a foot in depth.

In material wealth Modoc showed, according to the Census of 1880: Real estate, $582,985; personal property, $684,319 - total, $1,267,304, with a population of 4,399. At present her population doubtless exceeds five thousand.

ADIN

This town, having post and express offices, is situated in the east end of Big Valley, in the southwestern part of the county, forty miles southwest of Alturas, the county seat, and one hundred and twenty-four miles northeast of Redding, its nearest railroad connection. It is business center for the trade of the northern end of the valley, or rather all that part which lies in Modoc, and is making permanent progress in the erection of substantial buildings. The principal interests are farming, dairying and stockraising. The two boasts of one newspaper. The Adin Argus (weekly) a hotel, flouring mill, planing mill, livery stable, drug store and several establishments of other characters, and in all of its aspects is a bright and enterprising a town as can be found in Northeastern California. Stage connections are had daily with Alturas and Redding. The flouring mill here, built at a cost of $8000, is run by water power, and has a capacity of forty barrels per day. It manufactures a superior quality of flour, feed, etc. The planing mill, also a water power, has improved machinery and manufactures most of the doors, sashes, etc., used in the vicinity.

ALTURAS

This town, the county seat, is located at the east end of Hot Spring Valley, at the confluence of the north and south forks of the Pitt River. The location is practically the center of the county and is reached from the east and west by daily stage lines from Redding and Reno, Nev., the distance from Redding being one hundred and sixty-four miles, and from Reno two hundred and seven miles. The general interests of the surroundings are altogether agricultural, which with the importance given to the place on account of its being the capital of the county has stimulated it into a very material progress. It business interests are included in three general stores, a large and commodious hotel, and several small mechanical and business establishments. The town is tastefully laid out and improvements as they are inside are carried on with reference to the future possibilities in Alturas’ career. A weekly newspaper, The Modoc I ndependent, published by Mr. D. C. Slater, is the official organ of the county, and is well supported. The population numbers about 500.

CEDARVILLE

This the most important town of Surprise Valley, is located twenty miles north of the county line, at about the center of the valley. At this place the main road from Reno divides, one branch passing through a low mountain divide to Alturas, the other continuing north through the valley to Fort Bidwell. It is supported by a rich and fertile neighborhood, and carries on over half the trade of the valley. Its business establishments are flourishing and more numerous than are ordinarily found in towns of its size. Daily stage connection is had with Reno. Population about two hundred.

EAGLEVILLE

This town is the first of the series of towns in Surprise Valley, being at the lower end, and has the usual postal facilities of the valley: the Reno stage line passing here daily. It is located on Eagle Creek, and surrounded by a fine farming community. Population about one hundred.

FORT BIDWELL

This town located at the head of Surprise Valley, is the most northerly settlement of the county. The Fort itself is splendidly located upon a Government reservation one mile square, and contains large and commodious frame buildings. The town lies to the east of the Fort, just off the reservation. It possesses the usual business interest, and has nearly the same number of people as Cedarville, upon whom it draws for patronage. The Reno stages run daily to this point, where connection with the Alturas line is made which passes on into Oregon.

LAKE CITY

This place is situated on Mill Creek, near the upper shore in Surprise Valley. It is ten miles north of Cedarville and six miles south of Fort Bidwell. It has the usual postal facilities of the valley, and is surrounded by a long stretch of low meadow land which cannot be surpassed in fertility.

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Last updated December 28, 2006